If you are chasing natural Botox-alternatives, I am sure you took notice of the peptide trend in skincare. There is a dizzying abundance of products. The claims the peptide-developers make are impressive, and the economic outlook for the makers is promising. Because of the growing demand for natural wrinkle solutions, the market value of peptide skincare is rising as strong as real estate in New York.

But the question is: Do they work?

Yes and no. There are promising study results as well as undeniable sobering truths. You will learn about these in this article.

First of all, what are peptides?

Peptides are tiny molecules designed to solve skin issues, from tightening loose skin, brightening brown spots, and flattening crow’s feet. They are built from amino acids, but are smaller and less complex than proteins. In the body they act as signalling particles for targeted cell communication. Like a fitness coach who yells at you when to run, how fast, and in which direction.

Here an overview of the 6 most popular Btox-peptides, how they work, what science says about them and the limitations.

XEPÔ-30 and XEPÔ-018 (μ-conotoxin CnIIIC)

No, XEPÔ-30 and XEPÔ-018 aren’t the names of Elon Musk's new kids. They are biomimetic peptides derived from the paralyzing marine cone snail venom (μ-conotoxin CnIIIC). A single cone snail possesses enough venom to kill up to 700 adult humans (although humans aren’t a target).

The venom curbs the electrical signal from the nerve to the muscle.

No independent studies are available at this stage. Although, the stakeholders of Erasa Skincare state on their website that their XEP 30 Serum reduced wrinkle depth by 48% after 30 days.

Argireline® (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8)

Out of all the following peptides, Argireline® acts the closest to how Btox works by blocking the neurotransmitter acetylcholine.

A lotion with a 10% concentration reduced wrinkle depth by up to 30% in 30 days. Another product reduced crow's feet by almost 50% in 4 weeks.

Sounds promising, but there are downsides. Argireline® is toxic to stem cells. An experiment on isolated cell cultures showed an inhibition of fibroblast cell division by 67%, which reduces collagen and elastin production.

The large molecular size of 889 Dalton (Da) makes it nearly impossible to squeeze through the skin. For optimal skin absorption, molecules should be below 500 Da.

Only 0.2% of the serum you apply penetrates the skin and only into the surface layer, where cells aren’t active anymore. It’s like setting up an all-you-can-eat buffet in a cemetery. And, even if you leave the product on for 24 hours, you will rinse 98% off. A lot of money down the drain!

SNAP-8® (Acetyl Octapeptide-3)

SNAP-8® works like Argireline® but is more advanced.

This peptide is even larger than Argireline® and needs extra help to arrive at the target area. Skincare makers incorporate Snap-8 into microneedle patches. Fine needle pricks into the skin enhance the absorption.

Microneedle patches with Acetyl Octapeptide-3 reduce the depth of crow's feet by up to 26%, but the products that were tested also contained skin plumper like hyaluronic acid and vitamin C. Thus, the results can’t be solely credited to the peptide.

Leuphasyl® (Pentapeptide-18)

Leuphasyl® inhibits the electrical impulse from nerve to muscle.

At a 2% concentration, it reduces the depth of frown lines by up to 35% and crow's feet by up to 28% after 2 months.

Snake Venom—Vialox® (Pentapeptide-3) & Syn-Ake® (Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate)

There are two different peptides on the market that mimic the paralyzing effect of snake venom. One goes by the name Vialox®, the other one is Syn-Ake®.

A person who is bitten develops symptoms like muscle weakness, breathing problems, and a slowing heart rate—typical signs of muscle paralysis.

Studies on mice show that the viper venom (Waglerin-1) curbs the electrical signalfrom nerve to muscle.

There aren't any independent studies about the efficacy of this peptide in skincare. The Texan skincare company Revision Skincare, whose wrinkle smoother Revox™ Line Relaxer contains Syn-Ake®, conducted a well-designed trial. The results had a wow-effect, but when company owners fund studies and the conducting scientists are their employees, the results lose credibility.

My Verdict

Experts say peptides may overstimulate and therefore desensitize cell receptors, which ultimately lessens the potency of the products overtime. Other concerns are metabolic exhaustion, and even pathological signaling [86]. Despite the lack of clinical evidence for this, the theory is based on a basic understanding of how receptors work.

Another worry is whether peptides in skincare even work. While studies confirm the efficacy, there is also evidence that ingredients don’t arrive where they are needed (as previously mentioned).

Additionally, naturally occurring enzymes in the skin can break down peptides before they get close to their target. For that reason, skincare manufacturers incorporate fine needles to overcome penetration challenges, but this poses the risk of skin damage and inflammation.

My concern is the toxic load coming from so many innovative products. Perfume (also listed as fragrance) for example, is a known toxin to disrupt hormone balance. Others are absorbency enhancers, and preservatives.

I picked 12 peptide products for you that have the peptides I mentioned before. Even though I made an effort to pick low-tox examples, only 1 product received a “clean” rating from Think Dirty. All other serums and creams contain ingredients that cause hormone disruption, oxidative damage, inflammation, and speed-up aging.

As a cosmetic scientist, new technologies excite me. But the evidence and scarcity of independent testing are rather humbling. The hefty price tag of skincare is a downer, too. Totally justified, considering wages and overhead costs need to be covered. But, please know, spending $160 on a face serum every 4–6 weeks (as I used to) accumulates to $2k every year. Your choice to spend that money on a (potentially useless) serum, or extra time off work, heal your nervous system and hang loose. Which option do you believe benefits your appearance more?

If the concerns haven’t curbed your curiosity about Botox-like products, I have a curated list of 12 creams and serums along with ingredient safety ratings. Send my a personal request here and I will send the PDF straight to your inbox.

Janett :)